THOUGHTS ALONG THE JOURNEY

I could be climbing Mt Nemrut in eastern Cappadocia, no not any more.

I could be sunning myself in the sun drenched beaches of Silifke, no not any more.

I could be checking out the Crusader Castles that dot the Mediterranean Coast as I eat my way down the coast to Antalya, no not any more.

I could be walking through the old abandoned Greek cities of Kayakoy that were deserted in 1927 when the Greeks and Armenians were told there was no room left for them in the inn, no not any more.

I could be walking through the Myra, where St Nicholas (Santa) called home, no not any more.

I could be sipping choi (tea) in 101 museums that show Lycian, Greek, Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman (the race not the chair) tombs and statues all out in the open, no not any more.

I could be exploring the ancient city of Heiropolis after having wandered through the gleaming white Travetine Mountains, getting closer.

I could be Ephesus, marvelling at the Basilica that stands on the place where it is said st John wrote his Gospel, that was a few hours ago.

So, where is Wally???

Here I am sitting in an Ephesus internet cafae wondering what all my friends and family back home are doing.

Your turn. Wally. 

My number one girl is not my mum (sorry mum) but my niece and God-Daughter Tania.

Tania turned sixteen last saturday and it broke my heart that I could not be there to celebrate with her. Tania and I are very close, she made her First Holy Communion during my ordnation, meaning that she was the first person to receive Communion from me when I became Uncle Father Paul.

It occured to me that this blog would be a great little way to tell her what a fabulous lady she is, just how proud I am of her and how much I love her.

This is a copy of an email I just sent her from Antayla, which is where I will be for another day. Please don’t count the spelling mistakes, I am working with a Turkish key board and only just managing to get by!!! Some of the email you won’t understand so let me explain. First, when Tania was growing up (at the age of 2) I absolutely refused to take her to McDonalds because of the way they oppressed their staff and used objectional work practices (yes, I did explain it to her in such terms). Second, when her other uncles and aunts were spoiling her with expensive gifts all I could manage was a trip to the $2 Shop - a tradition I continue to this day (uncle tight ar##).

The trip has been just amazing thus far. Turkey is a mixture of Europe and the Middle East.

Take Care, Paul

PS. Mum is a VERY CLOSE second.

PPS. You can see a picture of Tania, together with Sarah, Daniel and baby Jessica in the Jessica Ghanem picture folder.

PPPS. Happy 40th Wayne

___________________________________________ 

Dear Tania,

What can I say === your Uncle Paul has become a mad back packer and is travelling Turkey with not one but five other women. Tough life for a priest!!!!

I am having a wonderful time but am so so so so so so sad that I missed your sweet sixteen. On the night of your birthday I was in a cool place called Goreme and I felt so sad that I went out with one of the girls and she picked out some heaps cool jewellery for you ……. and guess what? It cost me than $2, in fact it cost me almost double that amount. WOW, I really broke the bank that night!!!!!! In the end I bought something for Sarah, Daniel and Paul Jnr as well, but yours cost almost as much as a McDonalds poison burger while the others only got the equivelant of a McChuck-up pig fat ice cream. How generous have I become!!!!!

I will be home in three months and I can’t wait to see you and hear about life, love, study and work.

Miss ya heaps,
Your Favourite God Father
xxxxxxxxxxxxx X 16

Greetings All,

I have seen so much in the past week that I want to share. The ever present excuse of a lack of time and computing skills <no pictures yet> is one I will employ yet again.

I am no theologian or church historian but I do want to share a great sadness. Turkey includes the cities of Istanbul <Constantinople was set up as the Chrsitian capital of the Roman Empire in 330ad>, Antioch <where the disciples were first called Christians>, Ephesus <the home of St Paul> and Cappadocia <the home of Basil, Gregory and other Church Fathers>. In Cappadocia alone there are over 400 historic churches that date from the 3rd to 15th Centuries. The punch line in this = I have not found a single living church community. So very, very, very sad.

The sights and sounds and flavours have blown my mind but my heart is full of sorrow. Perhaps the fact that I am the only guy amongst a group of 6 on tour should go some way to cheering me up!

Take Care. Paul

Dear All,

The Jewish Customs Officers must think me irresistable, this is what I reminded myself over and over and over again as I endured yet another strip search and grilling as I tried to make it through to the departure lounge. Make it I did and I now I find msyelf bashing out these token words in an Istanbul Internet cafae.

I quite got used to the fact that Franciscans speak Italian in Israel and so why was I so surprised to discover that they use French in Turkey?!?! With daily Mass in either Italian, French or Spanish the Parish Priest still wonders why his congregation is going down! I broke it to him as gently as I could; it could have something to do with the expulsion of the Greek Catholics or the genoicide of the Armenian Catholics or (just maybe) it could have just have a little to do with the fact that no one can understand a word of what you are saying. I was only glad that he had already given me the keys to my room and not just the front door.

Out of nothing more than pure pettiness I will speak only Arabic and English when I get to Italy. Yes, (I can hear you thinking) he hasn’t even left Turkey and already he is talking about visiting ANOTHER country. Now, aren”t you sorry that you didn”t sign up when I did??? Poverty, chastity and obedience < 2 from 3 aint bad>

I want to use superaltives like “amazing” “mind blowing” “incredible” and “like nothing else I have ever seen” to describe Hagia Sophia but even these words fall short of the mark. I was so moved that I almost cried when I walked in and saw the 55metre high dome, you see what makes this building so awe inspiring is not how it was built (bloody enormous and opulent) but that it was built by Emporer Constantine as a gift to God. Wow, now that is amazing. I am not into “buildings” but this is the story of the widows mite. Just as she gave her “all” to God so too did the Emporer. You may not all agree with me —- but even if one of you does at least I pass as that makes it 50%.

Tomorrow I leave for 21days roving around the country with little internet opportunities. So, take care, God Bless and go gently.

Blessings. Paul

PS. Happy Mothers Day Mum.

PPS. I had lunch today on the Boshporus Strait. To the left of me was Europe and to the right was Asia Minor. How Cool!!!

PPPS. Now talking about Lunch …… this is the Land Of Turkish Delight ……. yummmmmmmmmm

Dear Friends,

Farewell, once more, till early June.

I apologise to my ‘regular’ readers (all two of you) for the upcoming break in transmission.  My trip around Turkey will be done on the extra light and extra cheap, meaning no lap top and minimal access to internet cafaes. How will I cope!!!!

Now, let’s be truthful; how amazingly fortunate I am. My head is still buzzing from my recent trip and, once again, my bag is packed. Somewhere along the journey I took a vow of poverty, thankfully my God has a wonderful sense of humour. (I hope)

Very Many Blessings.

As promised here is a small taste of the wonder and beauty that is the Middle East. The first three clips reflect something of the uniqueness of each country. The final clip I shot while walking through the old city of Damascus, I discovered this particular character squatting down on one of those forever durable Roman built roads plying his wares. The photography is not good (Colin would tell me to bend my knees), but I was in such a state of shock and amusement that I didn’t focus on the task at hand.

CLIP ONE: Exotic Lebanon

Lebanon is a fusion of Europe and the Middle East (unlike Israel which is fast becoming a McSuburb of the USA). You can do a power walk along the Mediterranean and then ski the snow covered slopes – all before lunch. In the short drive between these two activities the car passes through villages that hug the edge of mountains each with a church worthy enough to be called a Basilica. The trip takes a bit longer these days, owing to the Israeli war, but the bridges are fast being repaired.

There exists a sickness amongst those who live in the north, they are sick and tired of war after war after war. Sadly some fear that another is imminent.

CLIP TWO: Gentle Jordan

Jordan. What a gentle and still country. Amman is crowded and busy but the good subjects of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan seem happy with their King and are a very contented people who live simply. The average Jordanian is poor but that doesn’t seem to be a problem. This is the only Middle Eastern country where the sound of the birds and nature can be heard over the whining of cars, the Islamic call to prayer or even the Church bell.

CLIP THREE: Bosra Syria - History Alive

Syria, once described as the axis of evil, is more notably the cradle of civilisation; the invention of the alfarbet (alphabet), the cradle of monasticism and now the home of 2million Iraqi refugees. This place is a living museum. 

CLIP FOUR:

K-tel man, Damascus style. 

Enjoy.

CLIP ONE - Exotic Lebanon

CLIP TWO - Gentle Jordan

CLIP THREE - Bosra Syria [History Alive]

CLIP FOUR - The Ubiquitous K-tel Man [Damascus Style] 

… I could write about the strip search I was forced to endure in Tel Aviv airport. (not nice / not appreciated)

Or, I could write about the dodgy way I got my visa to enter Syria, the so called axis of evil, which is the one of the mot beautiful places I have ever seen.

Or, I could write about the exotic and ancient sites I have seen - Madaba, Amman, Damascus, Bosra, Alepo.

Or, I could write about the amazing people I have met - like the people of Malaalula who still speak Aramaic (the languge of Our Lord), the friars doing an amazing job, the refugees fleeing into Syria and Jordan from Iraq, arheologists and salt-of-the-earth farmers.

 But, what I realy really reallly want to ask is: SHOULD I OR SHOULDN’T I TAKE MY BIBLE WITH ME WHEN I VISIT TURKEY NEXT MONTH?

Any advice????

PS. sincere apologies for those who have sent me emails, very limited and slow access means that it will take me a while to respond. But for the record I want you all to know that I am seeing some things that I know I will remember for the rest of my life. Forget what the news folk say and visit Syria and Jordan, apart from Cambodia no other place has had such an affect on me. I am only sorry that I can not share it at any length or share my pictures or use a spell cheque.

PPS. Tomorrow = Lebanon, but I have no visa. I am told that my habit is all the visa I need - I have worn it every day and all day for about a month (without washing it), which is not so unusual amongst the Middle East friars

I pity the poor folk who will have me working in their parish once I return!

“Now when ‘I’ was in Nazareth …..

“Walking along the Jordan river ‘I’ (with the emphasis on ‘I’) ….

“While strolling across the Mount of the Beatitudes while looking across to the Sea of Galilee ‘I’ ….

“The atmosphere ‘I’ felt in the tomb of Christ just by Calvary on Easter morn in the heart of Jerusalem……

“The remoteness of the land where the Dead Sea Scrolls was found caused ‘me’ (with the emphasis on ‘me’) …..

“The feeling I had strolling over what is now the Shepherds Field on the outskirts of Bethlehem ….

“Standing under the tree which Zacheus climbed to see Jesus as walked along the streets of Jericho ‘I’ was struck by ……

In few days I will be able to bore the people with:

“’My’ retreat in the Jordanian mountains where Moses is said to have gazed upon the promised land caused ‘me’ …….

&

“When ‘I’ saw the sorry state of the once great Cedars of Lebanon where the great Kings Solomon and David had the finest cedar lumbered to build the Temple ….

Yes. Tomorrow I leave for Jordan where I will stay in Mount Nebo and then continue on to Lebanon. There are a two provisos for this trip.

One. That I don’t get arrested and thrown into jail in Jordan for drug trafficking.

&

Two. That I don’t get arrested and thrown into jail in Lebanon for making a false declaration as I negotiate an M16 toting customs officer.

Honestly mum, it was not my fault – they MADE me do it. I am about to break those rules that are written in heavy lettering in that little book you get when you pick up your new passport. You know the one, it has a final line written in red that says ‘Australian officials will not assist you if you knowingly break these rules”. OMG!!!!

“But officer, everyone does it.”

Regarding Jordan: One of the friars who I will stay with in Jordan has a medical condition that requires medication that can not be purchased locally. When I was asked to bring  across a few medical supplies I expected to carry a box of panadeine forte, and not a chemical lab. The look of horror when I went to the chemist to pick up the prescription must have shown “don’t worry” I was told “everyone does it”.

As for Lebanon: Now, if the Lebanese catch any hint of the fact that I have been in Israel then I will find myself acting as an involuntary human shield for a group of appreciative Hezbollah soldiers against the next Israeli onslaught. So, this is what I must to do.

1. Destroy any paper with Hebrew lettering or any paper at all that identifies itself as having come from Israel. A big cheerio to that Lebanese friar who asked me to take across some mail – that he wrote on JERUSALEM letterhead.
2. Mid flight I must sneak into the WC (dunny), place my ‘soiled’ passport with an Israeli stamp on it somewhere they can’t find it and replace it with my new ‘clean’ Australian passport. Then I must pray that they don’t notice that there is no Australian exit stamp on my ‘clean’ pass port, or do a cavity search
3. Forget entirely the past 7 months of my life. I have been practising over and over again “Israel? I have never heard of the existence of such a country.”

Because of these dangers I have been strongly advised not to take my lap top or to ask them if they want to check out my blog.

The look of horror when I was told that this is what I must do must have shown “don’t worry” I was told “everyone does it”.

So ……… this will be my last blog and regular access to email for either a long time (3-6 weeks) or a very long time (3-6 years). Please pray that it is the former.

Happy Everything that I will miss out on.

-       a most anxious and already repentant - Paul Ghanem

PS. Sorry still not able to get my pics posted, it is a problem with the host.